Pair of pearl and diamond hoop earclips, JAR, 1987. Photo Sotheby’s
Each set in the center with a cushion-shaped diamond weighing approximately 17.00 carats or a natural pearl of light yellow-brown color measuring approximately 11.54 mm., within a seed pearl or pavé-set diamond frame and hoop, mounted in gold and silver. With signed box. Estimate 350,000 — 450,000 USD/ LOT SOLD. 422,500 USD
Note: Accompanied by GIA report no. 2125538645 stating natural pearl, saltwater.
Exhibited at the National Academy of Design in New York on November 30, 1987, as item 10 of ‘A Collection of Jewels Created in Celebration of our Ten Years in Place Vendôme’. Also illustrated in JAR, Joel Rosenthal and Pierre Jeannet, Art Books International, Paris, 2002, plate 208.
This spectacular pair of earrings was designed by Joel Rosenthal, known as JAR, in 1987 and included in his 1987 exhibition of just over 100 pieces in New York at the National Academy of Design. An American debut of his work, the exhibition was in celebration of his firm’s first ten years in the Place Vendôme in Paris and was for one night only. The room was dark and each patron was given a flash light with which to view the jewels. Imagine. The technique was novel and the effect was stunning. The earrings were also chosen for inclusion in his 2002-2003 exhibition in London, The Jewels of JAR, Paris, at Somerset House. This exhibition was composed of 400 pieces which provided a broad context within which to consider his body of work. Also, this exhibition was longer – three months. Like the first, attendees were given flashlights and this allowed them to view in the dimness of the galleries each piece in appreciative isolation from the whole.
The earrings seem to echo exotic opulence. In them is juxtaposed the soft and silky sheen of natural pearls with the crisp brilliance of diamonds by imbedding an antique cushion-shaped pale yellow diamond within a pearl-set hoop mounting and a large lustrous natural pearl in a superbly smooth diamond pavé mounting. It is a tour-de-force design illustrative of the boldness of JAR. While drawing inspiration from the past, his modern interpretation is wholly original – and unique. These earrings create drama when worn, but also stand on their own as miniature sculptures, as objets d’art.
The uncompromising artisanship that characterizes a jewel by JAR limits the number of jewels available at any one time from his workshop. Auctions have provided another avenue of acquisition. The appearance of each creation on the market represents a singular collecting opportunity. Sotheby’s has had the good fortune to offer at auction over the years, most recently from the collection of Lucia Moreira Salles, a number of his wondrous jewels. There is a whisper of a possible exhibition in New York in 2012. Regardless of the venue – JAR, Paris, at auction or in a museum – there is no satisfying the demand for his work from connoisseurs and the rank of aspiring collectors grows with each exposure.
Sotheby’s. Magnificent Jewels.New York, 09 Dec 2010