An emerald and diamond handkerchief brooch, circa 1910. Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.
The lozenge-shaped surmount set with a step-cut emerald, weighing 8.53 carats, within borders of old brilliant and single-cut diamonds and calibré-cut emeralds, suspending an openwork floral and foliate pendant designed to resemble folded lace, millegrain-set throughout with similarly cut diamonds and emeralds, terminating in a fringe of pear-shaped emerald and single-cut diamond drops, mounted in platinum and yellow gold, largest old brilliant-cut diamond approximately 1.30 carats, length at longest point 9.8cm, cased by London & Ryder, 17 New Bond St, London, W. Lot 122. Estimate £15,000 – 20,000 (€19,000 – 25,000)
Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the emerald weighing 8.534 carats is of Colombian origin, with indications of clarity modification; moderate amount of oil in fissures. Report number 75859, dated 31 July 2014.
Peter Hinks notes that in 1910 new shapes were employed in late Edwardian jewellery design. One of these was marketed as the handkerchief, an upturned kite or bottom-heavy lozenge with the sharpest angle at the top, so-called because their angular designs were « remotely intended » to look like folded pocket handkerchiefs. See Hinks, Peter, « Twentieth Century British Jewellery 1900-1980 », Faber and Faber, London, 1983, pp40-1.
Bonhams. FINE JEWELLERY, INCORPORATING THE CERES COLLECTION, LOTS 1 TO 101; A COLLECTION OF CAMEOS & INTAGLIOS FORMED BY AN AMERICAN FAMILY FROM THE 1930S TO THE 1990S, 17 Sep 2014 13:00 BST, LONDON, NEW BOND STREET