A pair of elegant gem-set, enamel and onyx ear-pendants, by Lacloche Freres.Photo Christie’s Image Ltd 1998
Each designed as an old European-cut diamond pierced panel with buff-top ruby, emerald, sapphire and onyx detail of Oriental motif in a black enamel surround to the diamond-set openwork and black enamel bar surmount suspended from a similarly-set top, circa 1925. Signed by Lacloche, Paris, no. 65718. Estimate CHF45,000 – CHF55,000 ($32,751 – $40,029). Price Realized CHF52,900 ($38,501)
A diamond pendent brooch, by Lacloche Frères. Photo Christie’s Image Ltd 1998
Designed as circular-cut diamond tiered arches to the baguette-cut diamond links suspending a series of pierced pavé-set shield-shaped articulated panels with baguette-cut diamond detail and tassels, circa 1929, with French assay marks (with concealed pendent hoops, accompanied by a box-link chain, 38.5 cm.). Signed by Lacloche Frères, Paris, number indistinct (2). Estimate CHF15,000 – CHF20,000 ($10,917 – $14,556).Price Realized CHF34,500 ($25,109)
Notes: Images of water permeated the Art Deco period. René Lalique’s abstracted glass fountain placed on top of the perfume showcases at the 1925 exhibition (image opposite) is as fine an example as this brooch whose curves are reminiscent of the cascading water of a fountain.
A « lacque burgauté », nephrite and diamond case by Lacloche Frères. Photo Christie’s Image Ltd 1998
The rectangular case set to the cover and reverse with « lacque burgauté » panels depicting Oriental garden scenes to the nephrite and lacquer sides, opening to reveal a fitted mirror, circa 1928, 8.0 x 5.8 x 1.2 cm., with French assay marks. Signed by Lacloche Frères, Paris, no. 76179. Estimate CHF22,000 – CHF28,000 ($16,012 – $20,378). Price Realized CHF19,550 ($14,229)
Notes: « Lacque burgauté », « burgau » being the word in French for mother-of-pearl mussel, is the term for lacquer inlayed with tinted blue, green, pink and purple mother-of-pearl. In some cases, gold and silver foil are also incorporated into the design. The technique was originally Chinese, but during the Qing Dynasty it surfaced in the Ryukyu Islands, located between China and Japan, and subsequently was passed on to Japanese artisans who became the primary producers in the 19th Century.
During the 1920s, such placques as are set in the present vanity case often could be seen in « objets » created by such houses as Lacloche and Cartier. There are two other examples in this sale, two « bonbonnières » by Cartier: lots 311 and 312.
A diamond, black and red lacquer lapel watch, by Lacloche Frères. Photo Christie’s Image Ltd 1998
Of Chinese motif, the red lacquer pendant with raised black lacquer flowerheads and vine detail to the rose-cut diamond trim and pearl terminal, the reverse with white rectangular dial and Arabic numerals, circa 1926, with French assay marks. Dial signed by Lacloche Frères, pendant no. 66889, interior case no. 8171 Estimate CHF12,000 – CHF15,000 ($8,734 – $10,917). Price Realized CHF13,800 ($10,044)
A diamond, coral and black enamel vanity case, by Lacloche Freres. Photo Christie’s Image Ltd 1998
The polished rectangular case with black enamel edging to the central diamond pierced plaque with black enamel and coral detail, opening to reveal two compartments, a lipstick holder and a fitted mirror, circa 1926, 8.3 x 4.5 x 1.0 cm., with French and English assay marks. Signed by Lacloche Frères, Paris, no. 9458. Estimate CHF9,000 – CHF12,000 ($6,550 – $8,734). Price Realized CHF10,925 ($7,951)
Christie’s . ART DECO JEWELLERY, 17 November 1998, Geneva