Enjoying a resurgence of popularity, the Art Deco era epitomises the elegance, style, and flair of the inter-war period. The celebrated firm of Cartier, synonymous with luxury, has been at the forefront of some of the most important jewellery design trends of the 20th century. Particularly known for their fashion-forward Art Deco-era pieces, Cartier has long been considered the crème de la crème for their highest-quality materials, craftsmanship, and innovative design.
A rare diamond bracelet by Cartier, made circa 1930 and estimated at £100,000-150,000, exemplifies all that is great about Cartier during this period. The design is composed of a series of undulating links of platinum, finely pierced and set throughout with a blanket of brilliant-cut diamonds.
An art deco diamond bracelet, by Cartier, circa 1930. Estimate £100,000 – 150,000 (€130,000 – 190,000). Photo Bonhams.
Composed of undulating links pavé-set with old brilliant-cut diamonds, connected by similarly set diamond hinged batons with baguette-cut diamond terminals, mounted in platinum, diamonds approximately 32.00 carats total, signed Cartier Paris, numbered 03827, maker’s mark, French assay marks, length 18.6cm
Also by Cartier, and from a private collection previously stored in a bank vault for the last three decades, are a pair of ruby and diamond clip brooches, circa 1925, estimated at £80,000-120,000.
A pair of art deco Burmese ruby and diamond clip brooches, by Cartier, circa 1925. Estimate £80,000 – 120,000 (€100,000 – 150,000). Photo Bonhams.
Each shield-shaped clip with a central cluster of cushion and pear-shaped rubies, within an openwork border of old brilliant, single and baguette-cut diamonds, rubies approximately 26.70 carats total, diamonds approximately 3.00 carats total, signed Cartier London, length 3.0cm, fitted Cartier case
Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the rubies weighing 4.26 and 4.21 carats are of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Report number 77355, dated 31 October 2014.
From the same collection, a pair of ruby and diamond pendent earrings, by Cartier circa 1930, carry an estimate of £30,000-40,000. Both are set with rubies of Burmese origin with no evidence of heat treatment.
A pair of art deco Burmese ruby and diamond pendent earrings, by Cartier, circa 1930. Estimate £30,000 – 40,000 (€38,000 – 50,000). Photo Bonhams.
Each brilliant-cut diamond surmount suspending an articulated pendant of geometric design, set with three graduated oval and cut-cornered rectangular step-cut rubies, the whole pierced and set throughout with old brilliant and single-cut diamonds, with baguette-cut diamond accents, diamonds approximately 3.70 carats total, each signed Cartier London, length 5.5cm, maker’s case
Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the ruby weighing 2.41 carats is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Report number 77356, dated 31 October 2014.
Demonstrating that jewellery from this period also has a fun and light-hearted element is an art deco diamond brooch in the form of an ice skater – very fitting for the upcoming holiday season. Made circa 1930 and composed of multiple tiny, differently shaped diamonds cleverly arranged, it is expected to fetch £2,000-3,000.
Also featured are a number of natural pearl jewels, including an impressive natural pearl necklace, circa 1900. Composed of forty-seven pearls measuring 6.5mm-9.3mm terminating in a 2.35 carat diamond single-stone clasp, it is estimated at £70,000-100,000.
A natural pearl necklace, circa 1900. Estimate £70,000 – 100,000 (€88,000 – 130,000). Photo Bonhams.
Composed of 47 graduated pearls, measuring from 6.50 to 9.30mm, to a late nineteenth century diamond cluster clasp, the central cushion-shaped diamond weighing approximately 2.35 carats, mounted in silver and gold, remaining diamonds approximately 0.30 carat total, length 38.5cm
Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the pearls are natural, saltwater. Report number 76944, dated 17 October 2014.
Coloured stones also feature prominently in the sale, with Burmese rubies as a particular highlight. Burma was for centuries the world’s main source for rubies, producing some of the finest stones ever mined. These old-mine stones are becoming increasingly rare and are now highly sought by connoisseurs and collectors alike.
A sizeable Burmese ruby single-stone ring, fashioned by famed jewellers Van Cleef & Arpels in 1923, is set with a sugarloaf cabochon weighing in at 13.34 carats and carrying an estimate of £80,000-100,000. Another Burmese ruby, featured in an Art Deco ring made around 1930, and set with a cushion-cut stone weighing 6.12 carats, is set to achieve £50,000-80,000.
A 13.34 carats Burmese sugarloaf cabochon ruby single-stone ring, by Van Cleef & Arpels, 1923. Estimate £80,000 – 100,000 (€100,000 – 130,000). Photo Bonhams.
The sugarloaf cabochon ruby, displaying asterism, weighing 13.34 carats, within a delicate single-cut diamond mount, with beaded and millegrain detail, mounted in platinum, signed Van Cleef Arpels, numbered 21844, French assay mark, ring size K½
Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Report number 76295, dated 17 September 2014.
An art deco Burmese cushion-shaped ruby single-stone ring, circa 1930. Estimate £80,000 – 100,000 (€100,000 – 130,000). Photo Bonhams.
The cushion-shaped ruby, weighing 6.12 carats, between demi-lune and baguette-cut diamond shoulders, ring size L
Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating. Report number 77353, dated 31 October 2014.
Equally rare is a circa 1930 Cartier Art Deco sapphire and diamond ring, featuring a vibrant blue step-cut sapphire of Kashmir origin weighing 5.34 carats. It is mounted in a simple single and baguette-cut diamond geometric mount and estimated at £100,000-150,000.
An art deco Kashmir cut-cornered step-cut sapphire and diamond ring, by Cartier, circa 1930. Estimate £100,000 – 150,000 (€130,000 – 190,000). Photo Bonhams.
The cut-cornered step-cut sapphire, weighing 5.34 carats, within a surround of single and baguette-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum, signed Cartier London, numbered 4326, ring size L, maker’s case
Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating. Report number 77352, dated 31 October 2014.
Three lots in the sale were formerly in the collection of Her Royal Highness The Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowden. Beautiful and glamorous, Princess Margaret was always immaculately dressed and be-jewelled. Each piece offered here is engraved with the letter ‘M’ beneath The Princess Margaret’s coronet and comes with a Certificate of Provenance.