Mots-clefs

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A Renaissance Revival garnet, diamond and enamel pendant, 3rd quarter, 19th century. Photo Bonhams.

the openwork quatrefoil pendant centering a square-shaped garnet within a surround of elaborate white, red, green, blue and black enamel; the reverse detailed throughout with table-cut diamonds; with fitted box signed Harvey & Gore, 4 Burlington Gardens, London; mounted in eighteen karat gold; dimensions: 2 5/8 x 2 3/4in. (some loss to enamel). Sold for US$ 35,000 (€31,255)

Notes: This important jewel represents an exquisite example of the English Renaissance Revival eclecticism embraced during the third quarter of the 19th century. The design encompasses a Gothic inspired quatrefoil motif enclosing a Teutonic Cross, defined by table-cut diamonds on one side, the other enameled with stylized lilies. These interesting characteristics represent a pastiche of the Renaissance and Gothic, they also reflect deep religious symbolism.

The size and design of this pendant suggest that it may have been created as liturgical or ceremonial jewel. The cross is the most powerful of all Christian symbols combined with lilies, widely associated with the Virgin Mary.

Although the elements and composition – table cut diamonds and enamel work – can be found in Renaissance pieces, it is the design and integration of Gothic and Renaissance components that make this piece most interesting and unique as well as a perfect example of this Pugin inspired era.

Bonhams. AUCTION 20000: FINE JEWELLERY, 13 Jun 2012 12:00 – NEW YORK

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