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A rare and important Schiaparelli midnight blue slubbed ‘Rococo’ scroll appliqué wool/silk evening jacket, Summer 1937. Photo Kerry Taylor Auctions.

with white petersham ‘Schiaparelli London’ label, boldly adorned with cream patent leather scrolls hand painted in oils with spots and lines, two small pockets are concealed within the strapwork at the front, large central Dali-esque stylised lips buckle at the waist, chest 92cm, 36in;

together with a group of photographs and articles relating to the original owner, the American actress Peggy Hamilton, and a copy of the Daily Sketch 1937 showing the jacket being modelled ‘Mrs Warfield’s smart fashion choice’ (qty) Wallis Warfield Simpson (later the Duchess of Windsor) chose this model for part of her wedding trousseau. She was photographed by Beaton wearing a similar jacket with matching dress the day before her wedding to the Duke of Windsor at the Chateau de Candé, France in May 1937. In the photographs which were later reproduced in Vogue, (and which also included the Dali lobster print organdy dress in the same session), the willowy Duchess, coiffed to perfection and with stern expression, was the epitome of refined elegance. Beaton photographed her again in a more formal studio setting wearing the jacket in June 1937.

Provenance: a gift to the vendor’s mother in 1974 by the American actress Peggy Hamilton.

Kerry Taylor Auctions. Jun 24, 2014. 249 Long Lane, London, SE1 4PR, United Kingdom