Étiquettes
circa 1790, embroidered green velvet, French, gentleman's court coat, ivory satin, waistcoat
A gentleman’s embroidered green velvet court coat and matching ivory satin waistcoat, French, circa 1790. Photo Kerry Taylor Auctions
heavily embellished with floss silk flowerheads and foliage; together with a pair of later black satin breeches (3).
Waistcoat: embroidery is slightly faded overall, the pale beige/pink leaf sprigs for example were originally rose pink. There is an odd seam above each pocket flap where it has been placed on more of a diagonal rather than straight but this seems to be contemporary with the waistcoat, possibly done by a tailor? Perspiration stains at rot to silk at each underarm. Missing top button. Later replacement muslin backing and lining. The rear hem and centre back area has 2 slits cut and a hole. Chest approx. 102cm, 40in
Coat: has been altered. Sleeves have been narrowed towards cuffs and cuffs slightly narrowed and re-applied. 20th century cotton lining down each sleeve. Triangular godets inserted at each shoulder. The coat has been remodelled/shortened, hem has been cut. There is also a 7cm fold line where the hem was once turned back and then let down again. Upper body side seams have been taken in approx. 1cm and then let out again, leaving stitch marks. Darts have been added at waist sides. Upper underarm areas have large triangular godets inset to widen. The embroidery/velvet areas have been cut and adjusted at the waist front and back shoulder areas. Crude tacking stitches have been used to further reduce the rear waist – fabric over shoulders pleated and tacked into place to reduce. Centre back seam needs re-stitching 8cm and both shoulder seams approx. 6cm each. Collar has been trimmed at the base all round (would have been taller) and then re-sewn. Lining is original but pieced and soiled and stained. Velvet is slightly faded evenly overall when you compare with colour inside cuff return. One cuff button is detached. Embroidery generally good, slightly faded as per waistcoat.
Breeches: black satin, non-matching and late 19th century. Lined in striped buff cotton. Steel buckles at knees have corroded. Slight wear to satin above one buckle.
Kerry Taylor Auctions. Jun 24, 2014. 249 Long Lane, London, SE1 4PR, United Kingdom
Alain.R.Truong 
Magnificent suit, but those « steel buckles at the knee » are neither original nor even eighteenth century. They are late nineteenth or early twentieth-century cheap trims. Perhaps someone was playing fancy dress.
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