Étiquettes

, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

3

Finial from the throne of Tipu Sultan. South India, Mysore, ca. 1790. Gold, inlaid with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds; lac coreAl-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

NEW YORK – Some 60 jeweled objects from the private collection formed by Sheikh Hamad bin Abdullah Al-Thani will be presented at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in the exhibition Treasures from India: Jewels from the Al-Thani Collection, opening October 28.  The presentation will provide a glimpse into the evolving styles of the jeweled arts in India from the Mughal period until the early 20th century, with emphasis on later exchanges with the West. The exhibition will be shown within the Metropolitan Museum’s Islamic art galleries, adjacent to the Museum’s own collection of Mughal-period art.

4

Dagger (kard). North India, Mughal, 1620-50. Watered steel blade; jade hilt, inlaid with gold, rubies, and emeralds. Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

It is with great delight that we present to the public this selection of works representing several centuries of tradition and craftsmanship in the jeweled arts—from India’s Mughal workshops to the ateliers of Paris,” Thomas P. Campbell , Director and CEO of the Metropolitan Museum, said when announcing the exhibition.

5

Turban ornament (jigha). North India, Mughal, 1675-1750. Gold, set with spinel, diamonds, and rubies, with hanging emeralds; emerald on stem and reverse. Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

Sheikh Hamad stated: “The jeweled arts of India have fascinated me from an early age and I have been fortunate to be able to assemble a meaningful collection that spans from the Mughal period to the present day. I am delighted that The Metropolitan Museum of Art will be exhibiting highlights from the collection, making the subject known to a wider audience.”

Gold box view 4

Tipu Sultan’s Magic Box, 1780–90, South India, Mysore. Gold. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

The exhibition is made possible by Cartier.

The display will include historical works from the Mughal period in the 17th century and from various courts and centers of the 18th and 19th centuries, including Hyderabad; a group of late 19th- and 20th-century jewels made for India’s Maharajas by Cartier and other Western firms; and contemporary commissions inspired by traditional Indian forms. On view will be several antique gems that were incorporated into modern settings by Maison Cartier, jewelry designer Paul Iribe, and others. Contextual information will be provided through historical photographs and portraits of Indian royalty wearing works similar to those on view.

6

Turban ornament (sarpesh). South India, probably Hyderabad, ca. 1900. Gold, set with emeralds and diamonds. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

India has been a vibrant center for the jeweled arts for many centuries, with its own mines yielding gold, diamonds, and many other precious and semiprecious stones. India’s Mughal rulers and their successors appreciated ceremonial and functional objects made of luxury materials. Among the Mughal works will be an elegant jade dagger originally owned by two emperors—the hilt was made for Jahangir and it was re-bladed for his son Shah Jahan, builder of the Taj Mahal. In the 19th century, the dagger was in the collection Samuel F. B. Morse, inventor of the Morse code. The hilt features a miniature sculpture—a European-style head.

10

Dagger (kard) with European head. North India, Mughal, ca. 1620–25 (hilt), 1629–36 (blade). Watered steel blade, inlaid with gold; jade hilt. Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

Historically, the gem form favored throughout India has been the cabochon. In the traditional kundan technique, a gem is set within a bed of gold, and often backed in foil to enhance its color.  Another highlight of the exhibition will be a gem-set tiger head finial originally from the throne of Tipu Sultan (1750–1799), which incorporated numerous cabochon diamonds, rubies, and emeralds in a kundan setting.

26

Turban Ornament (Sarpesh), South India, Hyderabad, 1800–50. Gold; set with diamonds and suspended spinel beads of earlier date. Enamel on reverse. H: 18.5 cm, W: 27.2 cm. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

Also on view will be several examples of North Indian sarpesh and jigha (turban ornaments) from 1875–1900, brought together in a display that traces their evolution from traditional plume-inspired forms and techniques toward more Western shapes and construction.  Silver foil backing was used; however, the diamonds were set using a Western-style claw or coronet, rather than the kundan setting.

12

Rosewater Sprinkler (gulabpash), circa 17th century (base) and late 18th century (neck), with inlaid rubies, emeralds and pearls. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

And a work designed by the artist Paul Iribe and made by goldsmith Robert Linzeler in 1910 in Paris recalls the kind of aigrette (decorative pin) that would have ornamented the turban of a Maharaja or Nizam. At the center is a large emerald, carved in India between 1850 and 1900.

50

Turban Ornament (Sarpesh), 1825–75, North India, Jaipur. Gold, set with diamonds; enamel on reverse. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

The exhibition is organized by Navina Haidar, Curator, Islamic Art Department. Exhibition design is by Michael Batista, Exhibition Design Manager; graphics are by Sophia Geronimus, Graphic Design Manager; and lighting is by Clint Ross Coller and Richard Lichte, Graphic Design Managers, all of the Museum’s Design Department.

52

Flask, 1650–1700, North India. Rock crystal, inlaid with gold wire, rubies, and emeralds, with gold collar, stopper, and footThe Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

The exhibition will be accompanied by a catalogue published by the Metropolitan Museum and distributed by Yale University Press ($40, hardcover). Written by Navina Haidar, with a foreword by Sheila Canby, the Patti Cadby Birch Curator in Charge of the Department of Islamic Art, and contributions from Courtney Stewart, Senior Research Assistant, it draws on a study of the collection called Beyond Extravagance, edited by Amin Jaffer, that was printed by Assouline Publishing in 2013.

Jade handle 02

Crutch Handle (zafar takiya),ca. 1650, North India. Jade, carved and inlaid with diamonds and agate.The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

Fly wisk full

Fly Whisk Holder (chauri), ca. 1700, North India. Jade, inlaid with gold wire and rubies. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

A13552 Sheik Al-thani 33723

Box (dibbi), 1740–80, North India. Jade, inlaid with gold wire, rubies, emeralds, and crystalThe Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

A13552 Sheik Al-thani 33676

Pair of Falcon Anklets, ca. 1800, North India. Jade, inlaid with gold and rubies. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

49

Base of a Water Pipe (huqqa), 1740–80, North India, Mughal. Jade, inlaid with gold wire, diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

Jade hookah mouth piece RGA

Huqqa Mouthpiece, 1750–1800,  North India. Jade, inlaid with gold, rubies, and emeralds. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

Jade Hookah Pipe SK

Huqqa Mouthpiece, ca. 1800,  North India, Mughal. Jade, inlaid with gold, diamonds, rubies, and emeraldsThe Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

A14416 Dagger 3166

Punch Dagger (katar), ca. 1680–1720, North India. Watered steel blade; gold hilt, inlaid with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

Gemset cicular case RGA view 03

Locket Pendant, probably 17th century, North India. Gold, inlaid with rubies and emeraldsThe Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

A13949 Sheik Hamad Al-thani 40996

Ornament in the Shape of a Makara Head, 1775–1825, South India, Mysore or Tanjore. Gold; inlaid with diamonds, rubies, and yellow sapphire. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

Gold Ink Set RGA - 02

Pen Case and Inkwell (davat-i daulat), 16th or 17th century or later, Deccan or North India. Gold, inlaid with diamonds, rubies, and emeraldsThe Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

Bird View 2a

Bird-Shaped Ornament or Finial, 1775–1825, South India. Gold, inlaid with diamonds, rubies, and emerald, with hanging seed pearls; lac core. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

Eagle Pendant 3quarter

Bird-Shaped Pendant, 18th century, North India or South India. Gold, inlaid with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, with hanging seed pearls; lac core. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

51

Ritual Spoon (uddharane),  ca. 1800, South India. Gold, inlaid with diamonds and rubies. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

Diam Gem set dagger 10

Dagger with a Yali Hilt, ca. 1800, South India, Tanjore or Mysore. Steel blade; gold hilt, inlaid with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

Jade TO RGA

Turban Ornament (jigha), 1675–1725, North India or Deccan. Jade, inlaid with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds; with hanging pearl. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

Elephant shape TO SH 01

Elephant-Shaped Turban Ornament (jigha), 1775–1825, South India. Gold, set with rubies, diamonds, emeralds. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

A13552 Sheik Al-thani 33905

Turban Ornament (Sarpesh), 1875–1900, North India. Gold, set with diamonds, rubies, spinels. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

43

Pair of Anklets, 1800–50, North India, Jaipur or Bikaner. Gold, set with white sapphires, with attached pearls and hanging glass beads; enamel on reverse. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

42

Anklet (dastband almas), 1800–50, Hyderabad or Rajasthan, South or North India. Gold, set with diamonds. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

41

Pair of Bangles (kada), ca. 1775–1825, North India, Jaipur. Gold, set with rubies, diamonds, and pearls; enamel on interior; lac core. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

40

Bracelet, ca. 1800, North India, Jaipur. Gold; set with rubies and diamonds; enamel on reverse. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

39

Pair of Bracelets, 1800–25, India, Varanasi. Gold, set with diamonds, enamel on reverse. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

38

Forehead or Turban Ornament (tika), ca. 1900, North India, Punjab. Gold, set with emeralds and diamonds, with attached pearls; enamel on reverseThe Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

37

Nose Ring (nath), 1925–50, Western India. Gold, with diamonds, seed pearls, and rubies. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

36

Nose Ring (nath), 1925–50, Western India. Gold, with diamonds, seed pearls, and emeralds. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

35

Pair of Earrings (pankhiyan), ca. 1900. Gold, set with with diamonds, with pearls and glass beads. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

34

Upper-Arm Ornament (bazuband), 1800–1850, North India, Lahore or Jaipur. Gold, set with agate, diamonds, and enamel; enamel on reverse. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

33

Jeweled Buckle and Slide on Silk Sash, ca. 1900, North India, possibly Delhi. Buckle and slide: gold set with emeralds, rubies, diamonds; sash: silk embroidered with gold thread. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

7

Seal ring with hidden key. South India, Hyderabad, 1884-85. Gold, set with spinel. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

8

Ceremonial Sword. South India, Hyderabad, 1880-1900. Steel blade; gold hilt, inlaid with diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, with applied silver wire. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

13

Necklace (kanthi), circa 1850-75, made of gold set with diamonds and emerald. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

32

Necklace (kanthi), 1850–1900, probably Hyderabad? Gold; set with emeralds; silver, set with diamonds; with pearls and string. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

31

Plait Ornament (jadanagam), 1890–1910, South India. Silver, set with diamonds, rubies, and pearls. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

14

Turban Ornament or Brooch of the Maharaja of Nawanagar, circa 1920. Platinum, set with sapphire and diamonds. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

15

Turban Ornament (jigha) of the Maharaja of Nawanagar, circa 1907 and remodeled in 1935. White gold, set with diamonds, with modern feather plume. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

30

Jeweled Crown, ca. 1900, Nepal. Pearls, colored glass, diamonds, emeralds, and rubies, with gold brocade ribs and bird of paradise plumes; interior lined with red cloth. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

9

Aigrette. France, Paris, designed by Paul Iribe, made by Robert Linzeler, 1910. Platinum, set with emerald, sapphires, diamonds, and pearls. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

11

A brooch featuring a carved emerald bordered by calibré-cut emerald and sapphire in a stylized platinum setting by Cartier, circa 1920. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

16

Brooch by Cartier, circa 1930, with mounts circa 1650-1750. Jade, inlaid with rubies, emeralds and diamonds. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

17

Belt Brooch by Cartier, circa 1920-30. Platinum, set with emeralds, sapphires and diamonds. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

18

Shoulder Brooch by Cartier, circa 1924. Pendant tassel re-created from original records by Cartier workshops, Paris, 2012. Brooch, platinum, set with emeralds, diamonds, enamel and gold; tassel: pearls and onyx beads. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

29

Taj Mahal Emerald. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

19

Brooch with Carved Emeralds and Diamonds by Cartier, circa 1925, modified by Cartier in 1927. Platinum, set with emeralds, diamonds and enamel. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

20

The Patiala Ruby Choker by Cartier, circa 1931, restored and restrung to the original design by Cartier Tradition, Geneva, 2012. Rubies, diamonds and pearls with platinum mounts. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

28

Turban Ornament or Brooch, ca. 1935, probably France. Platinum, set with rubies and diamonds. The Al-Thani Collection (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

27

Aigrette by Cartier, Platinum, set with emeralds and diamonds. The Al-Thani Collection (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

21

“Star of Golconda” Diamond Brooch by Cartier, 2013. Platinum, set with diamonds. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

22

Jabot or Cliquet Brooch by JAR, 2013. Silver and gold, set with emeralds, diamonds, pearls and rubies. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

23

Brooch by JAR, 2002. Gold, set with emerald, diamonds, rubies, rock crystal and white agate. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

24

Pendant Brooch by Bhagat, 2011. Platinum, set with diamonds and rubies, with diamond and ruby beads. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)

25

Pair of Bangles (kada) by Bhagat, 2012. Platinum, set with diamonds and pearls. The Al-Thani Collection. (Photo: © Prudence Cuming Associates)