A pair of diamond and onyx set Cartier Cufflinks, Cartier, Paris, circa 1920, maker Henri Picq, numbered 4595. Photo Wartski
platinum of triangular cross-section mounted with rose diamonds and onyxes. 1.6cm by 0.7 cm
These cufflinks are contemporary with the first series of ‘peau de panthere’ or panther skin jewels designed by Charles Jacqueau for Cartier Paris.
They are similar to the ‘broche poignee’ now in the Cartier collection and illustrated in Cartier 1900-1939‘ (London, 1997) by Judy Rudoe, number 171.
Cartier first used the panther skin motif in 1914 but it was not described as such until 1917. The motif reflected the idea of a Lady-Panther as a sexual predator and symbol of demonic-eroticism. Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1978) the artistic adviser to Cartier who was involved with Louis Cartier was nicknamed ‘Panther’.