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Van Cleef & Arpels. A ruby and diamond bracelet. Est: $100,000 – $200,000 (€79,000 – 160,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

NEW YORK, NY.- Bonhams will offer a large selection of signed Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry in its Fine Jewelry Sale on October 7 in New York. Among these offerings are numerous signature pieces such as “Alhambra” chains and an unusual group of chrysoprase jewelry. Extraordinary Burmese rubies, fine Colombian emeralds, and large diamonds are other star lots.

Among the Van Cleef & Arpels pieces is a ruby and diamond bracelet (est. $100,000-200,000) designed as a graduated band of oval-cut ruby cluster links enhanced by round brilliant-cut diamond borders. This lot is accompanied by a diamond extender that transforms the striking bracelet into a choker. The shimmering Burmese rubies are a spectacular and lively shade of red. Another lot, a ruby and diamond ring (est. $30,000-60,000) was designed to complement the bracelet.

A ruby and diamond bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels

A ruby and diamond bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate US$ 225,000 – 325,000 (€180,000 – 260,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

the graduated band designed as a series of oval-cut ruby cluster links, enhanced by round brilliant-cut diamond borders, accompanied by a circular-cut diamond extender converting bracelet to a choker; igned VCA, no. NY3760 S.O.; estimated total diamond weight of bracelet: 23.00 carats; estimated total diamond weight of extender: 4.60 carats; bracelet mounted in eighteen karat gold; length: 6 1/2in.; extender mounted in eighteen karat gold and platinum; length: 6in.

Notes: Accompanied by AGL report #CS 83468, dated June 9, 2014, stating 50% of the thirty-nine rubies tested at random as: Burmese (Myanmar) origin, with no evidence of heat enhancement.

A ruby and diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels

A ruby and diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate US$ 30,000 – 60,000 (€24,000 – 47,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

centering an oval shaped plaque, set with oval-cut rubies, within a round brilliant-cut diamond surround, with circular-cut diamond shoulders; signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. NY3760-1 S.O.; estimated total diamond weight: 4.90 carats; mounted in eighteen karat gold; size 4 1/2 (with hinged hoop)

Notes: Accompanied by AGL report #CS 83469, dated June 9, 2014, stating the rubies as: Burmese (Myanmar) origin, with no evidence of heat enhancement.

Another top lot is a beautiful diamond solitaire ring, signed Tiffany & Co (est. $225,000-325,000). The glittering piece is set with a large cornered square step-cut diamond weighing 7.38 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamond shoulders. Several other large diamond rings are also available: 14.51 carat round brilliant-cut diamond ring (est. $150,000-200,000), a 12.27 carat cut-cornered rectangular step-cut diamond ring (est. $150,000-200,000), and an oval brilliant-cut diamond ring, weighing 8.63 carats, mounted in an elaborate setting and framing the centre diamond from all sides (est. $90,000-120,000). Fancy coloured diamond rings are available in various colours and sizes, for example a 9.08 carat fancy intense yellow and diamond ring (est. $150,000-180,000), and a fancy yellow diamond, weighing 4.02 carats in a diamond surround enhanced with two half diamonds (est. $30,000-40,000).

A diamond solitaire ring, Tiffany & Co.

A 7.38 carats diamond solitaire ring, Tiffany & Co. Estimate US$ 225,000 – 325,000 (€180,000 – 260,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

set with a cut cornered square step-cut diamond, weighing 7.38 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamond shoulders; signed Tiffany & Co, no. 901197, with signed box; mounted in platinum; size 4 3/4

Notes: Accompanied by GIA report #1162082231, dated April 22, 2014, stating the center diamond as: G color, VS1 clarity.

A diamond solitaire ring

A 14.51 carats diamond solitaire ring. Estimate US$ 150,000 – 200,000 (€120,000 – 160,000)Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

set with a round brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 14.51 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds; estimated remaining diamond weight: 1.40 carats, mounted in platinum; size 5 1/4

A diamond solitaire ring

A 12.27 carats diamond solitaire ring. Estimate US$ 150,000 – 200,000 (€120,000 – 160,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

set with a cut-cornered rectangular step-cut diamond, weighing 12.27 carats; flanked by fancy-cut diamonds; estimated remaining diamond weight: 2.00 carats; mounted in platinum; size 6 1/4

A diamond ring

A 8.63 carats diamond ring. Estimate US$ 90,000 – 120,000 (€71,000 – 94,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

set with an oval brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 8.63 carats, with a baguette-cut diamond surround and split shoulders, enhanced by circular-cut diamonds, the gallery set with oval-cut diamonds; estimated remaining diamond weight: 4.30 carats; mounted in eighteen karat white gold; size 7

Notes: Accompanied by GIA report #2155965883, dated March 3, 2014, stating the center diamond as: J color, SI1 clarity.

A fancy colored diamond and diamond ring

A 9.08 carats fancy colored diamond and diamond ring. Estimate US$ 150,000 – 180,000 (€120,000 – 140,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

set with a cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 9.08 carats, flanked by triangular brilliant-cut diamonds; estimated remaining diamond weight: 1.80 carats; mounted in platinum and eighteen karat gold; size 5 3/4 (with sizer)

Notes: Accompanied by GIA report #11077189, dated August 6, 2014, stating the central diamond as: natural fancy intense yellow color, VS2 clarity.

A fancy colored diamond and diamond ring

A 4.02 carats fancy colored diamond and diamond ring. Estimate US$ 30,000 – 40,000 (€24,000 – 31,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

set with a cushion modified fancy yellow diamond, weighing 4.02 carats, flanked by half moon-cut diamonds, with a pavé-set diamond surround, gallery and shoulders; estimated remaining diamond weight: 2.35 carats; mounted in platinum and eighteen karat gold; size 3 1/2 (with sizing beads)

Accompanied by copy of GIA report #14859912, dated February 13, 2006, stating the central diamond as: natural fancy yellow, VS2 clarity.

A natural triple strand pearl necklace is another noteworthy offering, estimated at $60,000-80,000. The necklace consists of 369 graduated natural gold pearls of superb lustre and quality.

A natural pearl and diamond necklace

A natural pearl and diamond necklace. Estimate US$ 60,000 – 80,000 (€47,000 – 63,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

designed as three strands of 129, 122 and 118 graduated natural golden pearls, measuring from approximately 7.60 to 2.80mm., joined by an old-cut diamond floret clasp; clasp mounted in eighteen karat gold; length: 18in

Notes: Accompanied by Swiss Gemological Institute (SSEF) report #72593, dated February 10, 2014, stating 369 pearls as: natural, saltwater, no artificial color.

Other highlights include art nouveau pendant necklace by René Lalique, in the original fitted box. Based on the address stamped in the fitted case, this necklace was sold between 1902 and 1905 (est. $15,000-25,000); this piece reflects a transition in Lalique’s career as he moved from jewellery making to glass works.

An art nouveau glass, baroque pearl, diamond and enamel pendant necklace, René Lalique,

An art nouveau glass, baroque pearl, diamond and enamel pendant necklace, René Lalique, circa 1905. Estimate US$ 15,000 – 25,000 (€12,000 – 20,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

designed as a shield-shaped molded glass pendant with light blue patine, depicting a floral motif; enhanced by rose-cut diamond detail, suspending a baroque pearl, measuring approximately 10.35mm., from a light blue enamel link chain; signed Lalique, with signed box; necklace length: 22in.; pendant length: 3 1/4in. (pearl untested for origin, loss to enamel)

Notes: This pendant necklace likely dates from the period 1902-1905, as the address on the fitted box indicates that it was sold from Lalique’s Cours la Reine workshop, where he moved in 1902. By 1905, he had opened premises for selling jewelry and glass objects at 24 Place Vendome. Lalique had been experimenting with glass in jewelry since 1893, almost always combining the effects of glass and enamel, and his passion for the material continued to grow. In this molded glass jewel, wheel carving and staining allow Lalique to give the mass of chrysanthemums both depth and translucency. At the same time, the individual blossoms are subtly differentiated to show nuances of sky blue and violet shading. The rose-cut diamond tendrils provide a glittering counterpoint. Lalique enjoyed simple country flowers, such as these old fashioned Emperor of China chrysanthemums, and, as with many of his flower jewels from the period, the heavy blossoms are downward hanging. A number of his pendants from the period 1900-1905 also suspend a single baroque pearl. A few years later, by 1910, Lalique began to turn away from jewelry entirely, feeling constrained by the large number of imitators his innovations had inspired.

Contemporary Van Cleef & Arpels collectors will find the diamond and 18 karat white gold « Lotus between the finger ring, » (est. $15,000-25,000) interesting. The whimsical design has a pavé-set diamond lotus flower and petals that wind around and between the fingers as two rings, and also folds into a single ring.

A diamond and eighteen karat white gold "Lotus between the finger ring", Van Cleef & Arpels

A diamond and eighteen karat white gold « Lotus between the finger ring », Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate US$ 15,000 – 25,000 (€12,000 – 20,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

designed as a pavé-set diamond lotus flower and petals; signed VCA, no. no. 24428.50; estimated total diamond weight: 2.50 carats, size 7 1/4 and 5 3/4, together size 5 1/4. 

Notes:  the ring is numbered BL24428.50

A pair of ruby and diamond ear clips by the Aletto Brothers ($30,000-40,000) is another spectacular piece. The painstakingly crafted ear clips are each in bombé form set with invisibly-set rubies and flanked by round brilliant-cut diamonds. The weight of the rubies total 24 carats and the diamonds 2.40 carats. Also by the Aletto Brothers is a similar design, a ruby and diamond geometric ring estimated at $20,000-30,000.

A pair of ruby and diamond earclips, Aletto Brothers

A pair of ruby and diamond earclips, Aletto BrothersEstimate US$ 30,000 – 40,000 (€24,000 – 31,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

each bombe form set with invisibly-set rubies, flanked by round brilliant-cut diamonds; signed Aletto Bros., no. 80814, with signed box; total ruby weight: 24.00 carats; total diamond weight: 2.40 carats; mounted in eighteen karat white gold; length: 3/4in.

A ruby and diamond ring, Aletto Brothers

A ruby and diamond ring, Aletto Brothers. Estimate US$ 20,000 – 30,000 (€16,000 – 24,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

of geometric design, set throughout with pavé-set diamonds, centering a invisibly-set ruby panel; signed Aletto Bros, USA with signed box; diamond weight: 3.50 carats; mounted in eighteen karat white gold; size 6 1/2

A beautiful and colourful ring (est. $50,000-70,000) featuring a fantastic cut-cornered square-step Colombian emerald, weighing 5.40 carats will be offered as well. For those who collect gems of interesting colours, this sale features a fine Paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring (est. $65,000-85,000).

An emerald and diamond ring

An emerald and diamond ring. Estimate US$ 20,000 – 30,000 (€16,000 – 24,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

set with cut-cornered square step-cut emerald, weighing 5.40 carats, flanked by triangular-cut diamonds; estimated total diamond weight: 1.20 carats; mounted in platinum; size 5 1/4

Notes: Accompanied by AGL report #CS 62144, dated July 29, 2014, stating the emerald as: Colombian origin, minor traditional clarity enhancement.

A fine pariaba tourmaline and diamond ring

A fine paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring. Estimate US$ 65,000 – 85,000 (€51,000 – 67,000). Photo: Courtesy of Bonhams.

centering an oval-cut tourmaline, measuring approximately 10.1 x 8.0 x 4.7mm., surrounded by round brilliant-cut diamonds, with bombe ropetwist mount and ribbed shank;mounted in eighteen karat gold; size 7 1/2 (with ring guard)

Notes: Accompanied by AGL report #CS 59038, dated February 14th, 2014, stating: natural tourmaline, Paraiba variety, classic Brazilian origin, without evidence of clarity enhancement.

The preview will be on from October 4 to 6.